Sheet-Pan Chicken, but Make It Ottolenghi
A tray bake in the U.K. is what we in North America would call a sheet-pan dinner. I like the British term, a more succinct and, I think, euphonious name for an easy one-pan meal. You probably know I’m a fan of those, since I write about them pretty much every chance I get. Well, this week I’ve got a doozy for you from none other than Yotam Ottolenghi.
His chicken and chickpea tray bake has everything you could want from a colorful weeknight meal, but it’s raised to a whole other level by his ineffably refined touch. After coating the chicken in warm spices, he roasts it, half-submerged in olive oil, until the skin browns and the meat practically melts. Soft potatoes, silky-sweet peppers and good ol’ chickpeas line the pan beneath the chicken, primed to absorb all the fragrant, meaty juices.
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Chicken and Chickpea Tray Bake
This is already a world-class meal, but of course Yotam is just getting started. He nestles whole garlic cloves amid the vegetables so they can soften and confit and then smashes them into the drippings along with a dash of sherry vinegar to make a sweet and savory pan sauce. This may cook like a humble weeknight tray bake, but it tastes like a special-occasion banger.
On the simpler side of the sheet pan is Ali Slagle’s lovely, minimalist sausage with peppers and tomatoes. This streamlined recipe works well with any type of sausage and any color of tomato and pepper, though a mix of red, yellow and orange is always the most striking. Serve it with toasted bread to soak up those caramelized pan juices.
Rick Martínez takes sausages in an entirely different direction in his chorizo patty melt. He cleverly imbues a diner classic with the spicy, peppery flavors of Mexican chorizo. Then, instead of the expected slice of American cheese, he tops the burgers with melty queso Chihuahua and caramelized onions, poblanos and serranos. Be sure to use fresh chorizo sausage or Rick’s suggested substitute of spiced ground pork: Cured chorizo, which resembles salami, is too dry for this.
Shifting our focus to green things, Yasmin Fahr’s zesty pasta with feta and green olives is briny and tangy and can be on the table in under 20 minutes. Blistering the olives in oil concentrates their flavor while the crumbled bits of feta cheese add a creamy texture and a salty note.
In today’s “Crustacean Corner,” we have my seared shrimp with chard, chiles and ginger. I love using the juicy chard stems as well as the leaves; It’s like getting a second vegetable for free. And if you use rainbow chard, the stems will glow yellow and fuchsia next to the plump, pink shrimp. I like to use frozen, wild shrimp for recipes like this one. Just throw them in a colander and run water over them to defrost, and then pat them dry before adding to the pan. Also, feel free to substitute different peppers for the ones I call for. As long as you use one fiery chile (maybe a jalapeño or serrano) and one mellow one (any kind of bell pepper would work well), the dish will have the right balance of sweetness and bite.
Then for dessert, Jocelyn Ramirez’s almond-milk-based arroz con leche is perfumed with star anise and cinnamon and dappled with plump, sweet raisins for the best of vegan, spoon-able treats. It’s warm, comforting and just right for right now.
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That’s all for now. I’ll be taking a little vacation in Ireland. See you when I’m back!
